Which Way the Wind Blows
by Brooks MacDonald

Warmer than anyone could have predicted. And dryer, too. That certainly was the case this past summer here on the coast o' Maine. Surely an understatement, don't you think?

As I have always said in the past, "Sometimes it pays to get a little lucky." And we sure were when we installed a new air conditioner in our kitchen. As we've reported here, we have made many changes in our kitchen in the past couple years, almost doubling the Btus of our cooking equipment. As a result, the kitchen got hotter and hotter. To keep our star culinarians from melting, we installed a state of the art cooling system. Who would have thought that you could keep the people cool and the food hot at the same time, but that's how it works. In any event, no one deserves a better work environment than Scott and his talented crew. At least I can take heart in knowing that the sweat on their brows is from hard work and not from searing temperatures.

It really was a hectic summer around here, with record crowds and many projects to keep us all busy. And it doesn't seem to have lightened up as I pen this epistle in mid-October. With our new cook book, Lobster Tales, ready for publication any day, winter menus to implement, wine dinners to schedule and a whole lot more to get done before our annual trip to see our friends at Sugarloaf (Please Ron, don't make me ride to the golf course in the back of your cruiser again this year!), I guess I better get busy and fill you in on what's in this, our seventh newsletter.

In this issue we're going to offer you an easy way to get your Christmas shopping off to a rousing start. As the slogan goes, "Let your fingers do the walking." You will find out about our annual Wine Dinner Series and its dates, winter hours here at Hurricane and exciting new winter menu items that Scott and the guys have come up with. We think you'll really enjoy the Fire Roasted Oyster recipe on the back page. I can't think of a nicer snack to enjoy while sitting in front of a warm fire on a cold winter's night. Anyway, read on and remember, we are only a phone call away.

Lobster Tales...A Claws for Celebration

After almost a full year of testing and retesting recipes, it is with great pride (and about 10 more pounds) that we announce the publication of what is sure to be the next best seller: Lobster Tales.

Co-authors Martha Griffin (owner and supervisory chef at the Kennebunkport Inn) and Brooks MacDonald (owner and executive chef at Hurricane) have taste-tested hundreds of lobster recipes in search of the 45 best. Presented with four short tales by travel writer Valerie Tamis, these recipes range from the simply boiled to a "how to" for a traditional Down East clambake. This 100-page cookbook features color photographs and will stand as a definitive reference for cooks in the selection, cooking, and enjoyment of the crusty crustacean we have all come to know and love.

Martha and Brooks have operated and taught at the Kennebunkport School of Cookery for over 15 years. Val Tamis' stories feature her adventures on a lobster boat, how modernization has affected a coastal fishing village and a swashbucking yarn of a rum running incident in Perkins Cove.

This steamy opus is available at Hurricane, at the Kennebunkport Inn, and at many other fine retail establishments. The special one-time price is only $14.95. With the holidays fast approaching, we know no one will want to be without this epic stocking stuffer.

And Now, On to the Wine
by Paul Brick

Thanks to all who mentioned reading the last issue of The Eye; and special thanks to Brooks and Lu for their recognition. I would also like to thank the anonymous colleague who was mentioned in the article. Recognition from your peers is particularly gratifying.

Fall is such a great time of year at Hurricane, old friends, new menus, wine dinners to plan, experimenting with ideas that flashed through your head around mid-August and time to check out the great surf scene through our dining room windows.

One idea that came to me in August was doing a tasting of sorts, featuring Zinfandels from all around California. Right now Zins are HOT! All the trade magazines and wine publications are featuring Zins big time. As we are always trying to be in the forefront, by the time you read this we will be featuring four distinctly diffeent Zinfandels from different regions and producers. We will make sure to include a few of our favorite food pairings. And to make it easier for you to taste and compare all of them, we will offer a tasting tray of all four. Now that we print our wine list in-house, maybe your favorite will make it to our next update.

As many of you know, we have a very successful Wine Dinner Program. We have been hosting these special evenings every winter for the last four years and have had a great time doing it. This year will be no exception!

The 1996 schedule will include:

Mimi Giamorino - Mimi is now with Stimson Lane Wines and will host a dinner on February 1st, featuring the wines of Villa Mt. Edan.

Pete Emery - Formerly of National Distributors, Pete has moved on to bigger and better things. As the Maine and New Hampshire representative for Banfi, he now has one of the best Italian selections around. Join him for an Italian dinner featuring Italian wines of Banfi. Did I mention the theme's Italian?

We certainly hope you can make it to at least one, if not all our wine dinners. If you can't, we always serve great wine seven days a week, year 'round.

Time to get back to those Zins! Cheers!

Fire Roasted Oysters

• 8 Oysters, shucked, reserving the shell
• 1 pound fresh spinach, washed and chopped
• 4 ounces pancetta or any smoked bacon
• 2 shallots, diced
• 2 teaspoons olive oil
• 1 ounce brandy
• 1/2 cup Parmesan cheese
• 1/2 cup heavy cream
• salt and pepper to taste

Saute bacon and shallots in olive oil for 3 or 4 minutes. Add spinach and cook until spinach is wilted. Remove spinach mixture from pan and deglaze the pan with the brandy.

Add Parmesan cheese and cream to the deglazed pan and cook until thickened. Return the spinach mixture to the pan, mix well, and set aside.

Place spinach mixture on top of shucked oysters and bake in their shell for 10 to 12 minutes in a 350 degree oven. Remove from oven after that time and top with Tarragon Mousseline. Return to oven and cook for another 5 minutes, or until mousseline is well-browned.

Tarragon Mousseline:

• 2 egg yolks
• 1 tablespoon white wine
• 1 tablespoon dried tarragon
• 1/4 cup red wine vinegar
• juice from 1 lemon
• pinch cayenne pepper
• 1/4 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce
• 1/4 cup melted butter, still warm

In a small pan, cook the tarragon and vinegar over a medium heat until all the liquid has evaporated. Set aside.

Put egg yolks and wine in a stainless steel bowl and whisk over a double boiler until eggs are pale and fluffy. Remove from heat and gradually add the melted butter, whisking constantly. After all the butter has been added, add the lemon juice, Worcestershire sauce, cayenne pepper and the tarragon mixture. Blend well.