Which Way the Wind Blows
by Brooks MacDonald

Winter? I guess if you have to have one, then this last one would go down as the one that wasn't, as far as the weather was concerned. To all those who depend on snow for their business or recreation, our hearts go out to you, but....

As I sit and pen our sixth newsletter, I, for one, have never been happier to see spring come. Baseball or no baseball. There's a lot of work and planning to do this time of year and we're all ready to go. Allow me to fill you in on some of these happenings, goings-on and what you'll find in this little epistle.

First and foremost I would like to introduce you to Scott Wilder - our new Chef de Cuisine. Scott comes to us after spending a few years out on Maui. If I'm glad spring is here imagine what Scott must think! Scott is probably the most talented person to join our staff in quite some time. I'm sure you'll all enjoy what he brings to the table. No pun intended.

Also in this issue, Paul Brick will share some insights on our new wine selections. As I have said in the past, we made a major commitment to wine and wine service years ago and we have received national acclaim for our efforts. Some might question why we would change a list that has received such acclaim. After you read Paul's column I'm confident you'll understand. You'll also find an EYE item on our intrepid General Manager. If there is one person who does more and gets less credit for his or her efforts, I would love to meet him or her. This PC stuff is tuff.

We'll fill you in on important dates to remember as "the season" is now upon us. This issue's featured recipe is for our famous - or soon-to-be famous - Lobster Chowder.

Speaking of lobster: my good friend and cooking school partner Martha Griffin and I have started to assemble all of our recipes featuring the trusty crustacean. The first printing of this soon-to-be best-selling cookbook is due in late 1995. Maybe you'll have a hot boiled stocking stuffer for the holiday season.

Well, it's time to get started: recipes to test, herbs to plant-thank you Karen and Lu - a little paint to splash around and a little spring cleaning to get done before I get out the golf clubs. Fore! Now, if I can only make a par four this year?

Aw, never mind!

Who Is This Guy Anyway?

A few weeks ago I was having a beer with one of the area's top chefs. I had explained to him I was worried Lu and I seem to be getting too much of the credit for the success we enjoy at Hurricane, and Paul Brick, our General Manager, was going somewhat unnoticed by the public. The response was, "All of us in the trade know what a great job Paul does. Don't you worry about that."

If there is a greater tribute than being recognized by your peers for your efforts then I sure don't know it. All of us are extremely proud to have Paul on our team, and equally proud of the tremendous job he does. Paul has few rivals in the kitchen, behind the bar or on the dining room floor. Without question, he is the hardest worker with whom we have ever been associated. To Paul we give a heartfelt thank-you. And as they say on TV, "This Bud's for you."

And Now, On to the Wine
by Paul Brick

As reported in the last newsletter, Ann and I sped off to California last fall for a whirlwind tour of winecountry and a stay in San Francisco. After visiting eight wineries in four days, I thought the last thing I would want to do is attend one of the largest wine shows in the country - the Wine Experience - when we got to the city. But it's a tough job and somebody has to do it!

After visiting over 200 booths I can happily report, Ann and I came away with more knowledge and incredibly purple teeth. Some of the wines we tasted have made their way to this little corner of the world for your drinking pleasure.

We have made a few changes to our current list, and now offer about 75 different bottles. Why fool around with an award-winning list? Well, actually a few good reasons.

First, vintages change and supplies get tight around release dates. Second, we were able to find some really incredible wines on our trip. Third, by making these changes we feel we really have improved our already impressive list.

Here are some of the changes to preview before your next visit:

• Gundlach-Bundchu Bearitage, and incredibly smooth blend of Merlot, Cabernet and Zinfandel. It would go great with our Filet Mignon.
• Stags Leap Wine Cellars Cabernet, Fay Vineyard. This wine was my over-all favorite at the Wine Experience, not an easy pick with over 200 wineries present!
• Steele Point Noir and Chardonnay surely make you taste why Jed Steele is one if the most highly regarded winemakers today. The vanilla and nectarine flavors of the Pinot are elegant and the honeyed flavors and earthy overtones of the Chardonnay are just wonderful.

Our wine-by-the glass program now offers 37 different vintages. And we are always happy to open just about anything we have on our list - two glass minimum.

When you next join us, peruse our new list and let us know what you think. Our wine program - as well as your input - is very important to us.

Remember, life is too short to drink cheap wine. Cheers!

A Good Season for Wine List Awards
by Paul Brick

Since 1991 Hurricane has dedicated extraordinary time and energy to creating a superior wine list to complement the restaurant's menu. Those efforts were recognized recently as we received three major wine list awards: the Wine Spectator "1994 Award of Excellence", the Wine Enthusiast Magazine "1995 Restaurant Wine Award" and the Restaurant Hospitality "1994 Best Wine List Awards Competition". We know our commitment to developing a great wine list is appreciated by our customers, but it's always nice to be recognized by the wine trade, too.

According to Wine Spectator, "Wine has become an integral part of the dining experience, judging from the quality and creativity of wine lists from the United States and around the world." Wine Spectator presents the "Award of Excellence" to restaurant wine lists that demonstrate a level of commitment appropriate to the restaurant's menu and clientele. In determining the award, judges "weigh the quality of the wines, the pricing and how informative is the wine list or how easy it is to use."

Wine Spectator continues, "[We are] pleased to recognize restaurants that have made a commitment to wine. Our congratulations go out to people who have worked hard to establish these lists."

Wine Enthusiast Magazine describes its "Restaurant Wine Award" as "an ongoing guide to the wine-friendliest restaurants in America...dedicated to the notions that superior cuisine is instrumental to wine enjoyment... that good wine service means more than pulling corks and refilling glasses... that wine lists depend more on value and quality of selections than sheer length... and that proper storage is necessary to ensure maximum pleasure from any given bottle."

A natural subterranean wine cellar, temperature-controlled wine coolers, ongoing education for servers, an extensive selection by the glass and an annual winetasting dinner series all contribute to the success of Hurricane's wine service.

We are honored to be recognized by these three prestigous awards. Great food deserves great wine!

Here's to You, My Friend
by Luanne MacDonald

It is with great difficulty that I write of the death of my mother-in-law, June MacDonald. She was such an important part of our lives and the life of the restaurant. Not a day goes by when we are not reminded of the many things she did for us at Hurricane. From bar-snacks to apple pie to strawberry shortcake June was always quick to send something down from Kennebunk for the customers or the staff.

Even more, it is the spirit she passed along we will all remember most. She was very proud of everything we've accomplished here at the restaurant. As she should have been. Without her none of it would be possible. I say that not just for the financial support, but for the moral support she was always ready to give. Having June in our comer was the biggest plus anyone could enjoy. She was a very special person. Her friend Helen recently wrote, "June was as sweet as the apple pie she made." We will all miss her.

Brookie and I would like to thank our staff, our families and our friends for their support and donations to the Kennebunk Health Services.

Maine Lobster Chowder (Serves 8 bowls)

• 1 pound fresh picked lobster meat, cut into bite sized pieces
• 1 quart lobster stock (You can use bottled clam juice if you like.)
• 3 large Russet potatoes, peeled and diced
• 1/4 pound, plus 2 tablespoons butter or lobster butter
• 2 onions, peeled and diced
• 1/4 cup flour
• 1 quart milk
• 1 teaspoon salt
• 20 twists of a pepper mill

In a medium stockpot, heat lobster stock or clam juice. Add diced potatoes and bring to boil. Lower heat and cook for 5 to 7 minutes or until potatoes are tender.

In a separate saute pan, melt 1 stick of butter, add diced onions and cook until transparent. Add flour and cook, stirring roux for 2 to 3 minutes. Add the lobster meat to the mixture and heat through.

Add lobster mixture to potatoes in the stockpot and stir well.

Incorporate milk in a slow steady stream, stirring. Bring to heat, just short of boiling and gradually stir in last 2 tablespoons of butter.

Adjust seasonings and serve in heated bowls

As good as this is, it's even better the next day!