Which Way the Wind Blows
by Brooks MacDonald

Welcome to the Spring, 2002 edition of the Eye of the Hurricane.

As I sit and pen this now famous and highly anticipated little missive - it's fun to think back to 12 years ago as we started out on our life-long dream. How blind we were to the odds of failure vs. the odds of success in the restaurant field. Without a wonderfully talented and hard-working best friend and wife, an equally talented and hard-working staff and a tremendous amount of good luck, I care not to venture where I would be sitting and what I would be writing today. I do know it could never be as enjoyable as this.

In this issue of the Eye there are lots of new and exciting things to tell you.

First, let me introduce a new columnist, Jennifer Gallo. Jen recently came to work with us in Dock Square and was gracious enough to agree to pen an article on what it's like to be the new person on the staff. I'm sure after reading her piece, you'll see she is a very talented writer indeed! And when you meet her, you'll see why we're thrilled she made a career change.

Celebrated saloon keeper and good friend in Chicago, Butch McGuire once told me that you can tell the caliber of a restaurant by the chicken dish it serves. Well, I've always greatly admired Butch, and the insights he's shared with me over the years have proved invaluable. As a tribute to him, we present this issue's featured recipe: Pan-Seared Chicken Saltimbocca.

Also in this issue, Paul has shares some handy information about our wine program and about wine in general. Lu has all the info about the new private-label bread dippers we now have available, plus she offers another little piece on "restaurant speak." There's some stuff about what it's like to be in the restaurant business, a little news about our soon-to-be-introduced, redesigned web site and a few other things we hope you find of interest.

Here's hoping all your dreams of summer become a reality and you have a season of good health. Until next time, cheers!

So, You Want to Open a Restaurant
by Brooks MacDonald

The number one question I'm always asked is: "How do you run a restaurant?" There seems to be a romance about this business people find intriguing. So, before you run off and put your life savings into a down payment on that little greasy spoon down the road, here are a few thoughts I pass along: The typical American consumes an average of 4.2 meals prepared away from home per week, or 218 meals per year. The average annual expenditure for food away from home in 2000 was $855 per person. More than 54 billion meals will be eaten away from home in 2002. On a typical day the restaurant industry should post sales of more than $1.1 billion. Sales are forecast to advance 3.9% this year and equal 4% of the U.S. gross domestic product.

Boy, with all that potential market out there, it's starting to sound really exciting, isn't it? But don't sign that lease agreement just yet.

Employing an estimated 11.6 million people, the restaurant industry will provide work for nearly 9% of all those employed in the United States. (We have absolutely no idea what the other 91% do!)

Here at Hurricane we are certainly doing our part on the labor front. When fully staffed, we will be employing approximately 90 people with an annual payroll approaching the $1-million mark. Add to that food and beverage costs in excess of 60% of sales, plus expenses for rent, insurance, advertising, supplies and equipment - among other things. It becomes easy to understand why the National Restaurant Association figured the median pre-tax income for full-service restaurants was just 5% of total sales in 2000. The association also figures something like seven out of 10 restaurants that open in 2002 will fail in the first few years of existence. (Can you hear me knocking on wood?)

So, why would anyone want to be in this business? It's quite simple, actually. When it all comes together - the food and wine are on the mark, the service is crisp and congenial, your entire team is really clicking and you're playing to a packed house night after night - there is nothing else like it in the world. Especially when a customer takes the time to seek you out and say, "Thank you, it was wonderful."

It's all about satisfying the guest, catering to their wants and needs and giving them a warm and comfortable place in which to dine. It's about tending to the wants and needs of your staff and giving them a good environment in which to work. It's all about the love of the game. And we wouldn't swap it for any other job in the world.

If You're Going to Walk the Walk, You've Got to Talk the Talk (a beginners' guide to the language of restaurants)
By Luanne MacDonald

If you still think you want to get into the restaurant biz - even after reading Brookie's piece about how many cooks it takes to MAKE the broth - then I thought I'd give you a little heads-up about the "printable language" you'll encounter in the hospitality world. Let the following words, terms and phrases serve as your own personal glossary. Oh, and by the way, good luck in your new endeavor!

Deuce: A table for two.

3-Top, 4-Top or 5-Top, etc: The number of people to be seated or already seated at a table. (Or, where all the deuces would rather be moved to on a busy night.)

Covers: Each meal served is counted as a cover.

Station: A section of tables in the restaurant for which one or more waiters is responsible. (The nearest waiter is never in your section.)

Fire: A cue given to the chef to begin cooking an order. (As opposed to "FIRE!" or "You're fired!")

Ressie: A reservation to hold a table for you at a specific time. You promise to come at that time, and we promise to have a table ready and waiting for you at that time. (Also an infrequently spotted "something" in the waters off Perkins Cove.)

The Book: Where reservations are kept. (And yours are lost.)

The Wait: The time before a reservation can expect to be seated. (To us: a moment. To you: an eternity.)

Squatters: Diners who sit (linger, loiter, loll, etc.) at their table long after they have finished their meals and drinks. (Our rule is: If you are napping, we can wake you up and throw you out!)

Hats: A table of all women diners. (Where they discuss shoes.)

Suits: A table of all men diners, often a business meeting. (Where they discuss women.)

Bus: The clearing of dirty dishes from a vacated table. (See: The Wait.)

The Weeds: A server running only on instinct because of too many hats, suits, deuces, 4-tops and covers in their station. (Your waiter is always in the weeds.)

86 List: Menu items the restaurant is out of. (Usually what you just ordered.)

Walk-in: a) Guests who arrive without a reservation; b) Refrigerated room for storage of food, beer and wine. (Where we sometimes put guests who arrive without a reservation.)

No-Shows: People who make reservations and then don't honor them. (A serious and growing problem in our industry - Don't be a No Show! You couldn't call? Your fancy cell phone battery was low? There's no phone where you are?)

Provisions Adds Our Own Line to the Selection
By Luanne MacDonald

Because of a distribution problem in California, we are no longer able to purchase the B.R. Cohn Olive Oil in the small bottle size we have featured on our tables and in Provisions for the past several years.

After taste testing many other brands of olive oil, we decided to create and serve bread dippers with our very own label. We are very excited to be offering our first house brand in five delicious flavors: The Ultimate, Balsamic, Garlic Kalamata, Garlic Basil and Roasted Tomato Basil. All are now available for purchase. (Ask your server for a tip on pouring these on your bread plate.) As always, you will still be able to request these dippers or butter for bread service in the restaurants.

Stop by our Provisions shop the next time you're in Ogunquit, or our outlet shop inside the restaurant in Kennebunkport, to see lots of new Hurricane hospitality memorabilia and gourmet accouterment being offered for the 2002 season. (Have you seen those adorable little hand-painted lighthouse pepper grinders those stylish.)

Confessions of a Hurricane Hostess
By Jennifer Gallo

There I was: hostessing my heart out when Brooks, my new boss of one month, approached me with what he said was a "proposition." Immediately I thought, "I've done it! I've shown them already what a bright, capable employee I am. I'm getting a promotion!"

Not quite. The proposition was actually that I write a short piece about my experience so far working at Hurricane. It should be "tongue in cheek," Brooks said. Although I've worked as a writer/editor for the majority of the past eight years, the assignment did trouble me. How in the world does "the new girl" offer commentary on her employers, coworkers and patrons for a newsletter read by those very same people... without getting herself promptly fired? I found myself in a bit of a pickle... for all of about half a second.

The truth is that after I overcame some of my first week fears (see below), my job has been a joy.

Fear #1: Front of the House vs. Back of the House, or Why Can't We All Just Get Along?

I have a friend who is a manager and waitress at an Italian eatery in Schenectady, New York, the town in which I was born, raised and lived until four years ago. This friend of mine warned me that restaurant kitchen staffs and wait staffs historically feud and that chefs are, basically, tyrannical egomaniacs. This came as both a shock and disappointment to me. Nevertheless, I decided I would simply make it my business to not provoke or otherwise offend the cooks with whom I worked. Note to self: When entering kitchen, keep eyes down at all times and speak only when spoken to. On day one, I did just that. But by day two, I realized there was nothing - or I should say no one - to "fear." I'm sure it comes as no surprise to you that the people preparing your meal on the other side of those mahogany swinging doors are just as friendly - not to mention hard-working and talented - as the folks who serve you at your table. Everyone gets along. (That's my story today. Talk to me when summer's in full swing and the pressure's really on.)

Fear #2: I'm Going to Get HUGE

Between the crispy-on-the-outside, doughy-on-the-inside, fresh-baked bread laid out daily about four feet from my nose and the fantastically tempting new desserts our pastry chef has us sample most mornings, it's a wonder I'm not rolled out of the restaurant at the end of each day. Additionally, abundant frosty beverages, mixed drinks and wines deftly poured by our bartenders - directly across the aisle from me - evoke the nagging urge to belly directly up to the bar at the end of my shift. Restraint, however, is the key: Want bread? Have a glass of water. Want double chocolate cake with a chocolate crust and chocolate syrup served with chocolate chip cookies dipped in chocolate? Have a glass of water. Want a cocktail? Have a martini.

Fear #3: I'll Trip and Fall and Drop a Tray of Glasses

I haven't done it yet. Give me time.

After spending plenty of years (and late nights) in a lonely office, eyes fixed on my laptop, back and neck in ergonomic hell, hostessing at Hurricane is a true breath of fresh air. I greet guests with a smile, seat them in a lovely dining room with a breathtaking view and hand them menus filled with amazing, creative culinary selections. It's a pleasure, really. And it's a new beginning for me I think.

Cob-webs or Web-site

Among our many projects this summer is the redesign of our web site.

Our original web site was launched and, for the last several years, maintained by Travis Ferland. But Travis has decided he needs a break from the cyber world and will be leaving us by the end of the current year. We would like to thank Travis for a truly outstanding job. He has been a pleasure to deal with and we're going to miss him greatly. We wish him well and know he will be very successful in whatever he attempts in the future.

When our new site is completed later this summer, you will find many new and useful additions. Among them will be our daily menus in both restaurants, a recipe archive, easy links to great hotels, inns and guesthouses in our area, as well as, lots of information about area activities and Hurricane events.

If you have any ideas on how to improve our web site, we'd love to hear them. E-mail us at hurricane@perkinscove.com. You can track our progress by checking our internet address at www.hurricanerestaurant.com.

Pan-Seared Chicken Saltimbocca (Serves 4)

• 4 8-oz. boneless chicken breasts, with wing bone attached, if possible
• 2 large shallots, peeled and minced
• 2 oz. extra virgin olive oil
• 10 oz. prosciutto de Parma, cut to thin matchsticks
• 12 oz. heavy cream
• 1 cup Parmesan cheese, freshly grated
• 1/2 cup loose pack, fresh basil, trimmed
• 1 1/2 cups loose pack, spinach leaves, trimmed salt and pepper to taste

1) Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Heat large sautÎ pan over open burner. When hot, add 1 oz. olive oil. Place chicken breasts, skin side down, in pan and cook until well browned. Flip chicken in pan and place in oven for 15 minutes.

2) In the meantime, heat a second sautÎ pan with remaining oil. SautÎ shallots until transparent. Add prosciutto de Parma and render for 2 minutes. Add cream and reduce the liquid by half. Add cheese to cream slowly to melt. Add basil and spinach to wilt. Adjust seasonings.

3) Remove chicken from oven and place on pre-heated plates. Top with sauce and garnish with extra Parmesan or extra basil leaves, if desired.

White wine suggestion: Steele California CuveÎ Chardonnay Red wine suggestion: Calera "El Nino" Pinot Noir.