Hurricane an oasis of good food
Dean Johnson
Lifestyle/Arts Section, Restaurant Review
The Lowell Sun

August 30, 2001

Food: * * * 1/2
Atmosphere: * * * *
Service: * * * 1/2

It's a great slogan for a restaurant, and one that has served the original Hurricane well over the years.

That eatery is in Ogunquit's Perkins Cove and offers some spectacular views of Maine's rocky coast.

But now a second Hurricane has opened smack in the middle of downtown Kennebunkport, and since this weekend is summer's last hurrah, you just might want to sample it as well. The views aren't quite as splendid at the junior spot, but the menu does offer many enticing things.

This new all-year Hurricane has taken over what was formerly the Riverview family restaurant. The space has undergone some renovations, so the soda fountain is gone. A small bar now greets visitors on the right as they enter. A far too long retail counter is on the left.

Much of the casually upscale dining space has a view of the river, and at sunset that can be an impressive sight. A big, big mural of the Dock Square area in much earlier times impressively dominates one wall.

An eye for detail is part of what made the first Hurricane such a success, and that continues to be true at the second operation.

Service was everything it's supposed to be, and when my guest spilled a drink, our waiter rushes over to confine the damage without so much as a glance from us, even though the place was really cooking the night we visited.

The hearth-baked sourdough bread was an encouraging start, and the crab cakes ($14) only added to that initial good impression. Light and savory, they put most of the others I've sampled to shame.

The tenderloin carpaccio ($8) also succeeded because it followed the same basic formula of letting just a few simple, fresh flavors dominate, in this case the quality beef and capers.

Entrees are constantly on the move at Hurricanes (sic), but the night we visited some options included an herb encrusted venison tower ($23), pan-seared monkfish ($21), and gorgonzola-stuffed filet mignon ($24).

The spicy praline encrusted Atlantic salmon ($18) was drizzled with an espresso caramel topping, and though it reads more like a dessert than an entrée, what at first seemed like an odd mingling of flavors turned into a delightful variation on your typical salmon dinner. The fish was fresher than fresh.

The Hurricane garlic shrimp ($18) was really a linguine dish served in a garlic white wine, and shallots sauce. The pasta, served al dente, was above average, and the shrimp were done just right and had a smart garlic kick. The order was prepared exactly as billed and done with care... and yet I was still a bit disappointed, only because most Hurricane entrees manage to surprise in some way and this was a fairly straightforward presentation.

On the other hand, the dessert mousse ($7) served with four kinds of fresh berries was to die for.

No warnings are needed for this Hurricane, just reservations.